Why Are Sports Like Surfing Addicting?

Individual sports have a different adrenaline rush than team sports.

Sports like surfing, snowboarding, skateboarding, BMX, mountain climbing, mountain biking, and even running are a real one on one. Some sports like surfing and skiing have a real mix with nature.While skateboarding on the street, in a park or in a pool, you can get hurt, but the condition of the surface never changes .

In surfing, you could get killed by the playing field. Its only in the background and you don’t think of it like you would going to war, but it’s still there. You suppress ideas of breaking your back getting tossed, hitting the bottom, and sharks. What you do think of in big surf is fighting the line up for the peak, not blowing the ride, and making the most of your ride.

The conditions are rarely the same. You look forward to the perfect conditions which you may only see a few times a year. I happen to love surfing in the mornings after I have stretched and warmed up regardless of the tides. I look for a three hour window around low or high tide and low wind when I guess it will be best.

Surfing challenges your bravery. It challenges your athleticism. It challenges your fitness and nutrition. It challenges your hierarchy of performance against those out with you today and those who are the greats. It challenges whether you are getting the most out of your board. It challenges whether you did everything possible with the wave.

It delivers ecstasy on the beautiful days. I just experienced a beautiful day where the ocean was glass and the waves were rolling out perfect rights and lefts. It is the beauty and creativity of nature you experience and the gift of being there when she produces the best waves imaginable.

You can replay a movie and share it with your friends and kids. You can’t express the feeling of the perfect day except with those who shared it with you. Just like in the videos, when you get out and are standing with those who also just got out from a great day you can see it in the eyes and hear it in their voices. This is what stoked is all about. It’s as good a word as any. Epic isn’t bad.