Winning in the Surf Line Up is Like Life

It’s a lot like life.

Have the expertise, expertise, the confidence, the sense of entitlement, respect for others, and the fitness to finish the mission.

Surfers in the line up can sense when someone is entitled to their turn at the next great wave. They become more sensitized when the waves are few and far between or the good ones are separated by a lot of close outs.

Paddle for a wave when you have a chance to get the inside position and catch it at the apex. If the day is crowded, the surfer at the apex is most likely to have the right of way. You can’t help it about the long boarders who might be able to start much further out than everyone else or get there first.

It is up to the long boarders to share as well or people will be cutting them off and dropping in on them. It is also not a great long term strategy to take every wave when others previously backed off for you. Some surfers kick out early so they can get back in position, but that doesn’t entitle them to every shot.

The bigger waves move faster and fewer people can actually catch them. In a few waves, the line up knows who could actually utilize the big wave and not waste it. If you waste a few, you will have lots of company on the drop in.

If there are too many people at the break and it becomes dangerous with everyone running for the same wave, it might be advisable to move to a safer place or one that is in greater accord with your wave catching skills. The alpha surfers are most likely to win out at the best breaks on crowded days.

The scene also becomes more intense when there are not enough waves for everyone because too many are close outs or the wave interval is too far apart with too few waves per set. Some people enjoy the hassle and some would rather just come back another day.

Winning is emerging safe and not ruining your day with too much frustration at not getting enough chances for good waves. Everyone reads the surf reports and estimates the best times given their obligations and free time. It amazes me how so many surfers show up at the optimum time during a session.

I find that there is usually one best window a day and that’s the one I shoot for. I may arrive a little early and have it to my self, but when it starts going off, I will have lots of company. Surfing with buddies or knowing the crowd in the line up is great because you are more likely to get your turn and more courtesy when you paddle for a wave.

If it isn’t fun, it isn’t worth it.